Restaurant Review · Ayutthaya
Pa Lek Boat Noodles
A bowl that costs twenty baht and outperforms kitchens charging three hundred euros. The Michelin Guide found this, considered it, and awarded the consolation accolade.
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Restaurant Review · Bangkok
Anne-Sophie Pic at Le Normandie
The cooking is extraordinary. The room is beautiful and legible and could be installed in Paris or Singapore without anyone noticing the difference. That is the problem.
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Restaurant Review · Amsterdam
De Juwelier, Amsterdam
The group behind Restaurant 212 and Bistrot de la Mer is building an empire on the Utrechtsestraat. The flagship needs to decide whether it intends to lead it.
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Restaurant Review · Bangkok
Saffron, Banyan Tree Bangkok
The view from the 52nd floor is only interesting for as long as the plate in front of you fails to hold your attention. At Saffron, that is rather too often.
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Recipe · Thai
Guay Tiew Rua Neuua Dtoon
Thai boat noodles with braised oxtail and beef neck bones. A synthesis of four recipes, grounded in the Ayutthaya tradition of Pa Lek. The blood is optional. The pork crackling is not.
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